Nov 2005

Today started as a very enjoyable and scenic drive to Queenstown but by mid afternoon turned into a very expensive one for me. Just after stopping off at Wanaka for lunch we continued onto Queenstown and got stuck behind this old couple driving ridiculously slowly. As the roads were very twisty I took my time in finding a safe place to overtake them, or so I thought. After getting past them within 30 seconds I noticed a police car up my arse flashing his lights and I pulled over thinking he wanted to get past, however it was me he was stopping. All 3 of us trying to think what I had done wrong before the policeman comes up to me and says “Hello sir how are you today”, to which my reply wanted to be “Well it was fantastic till you stopped me you tosser” but instead kept my mouth shut. Anyway his excuse for pulling me over and also fining me £60 was because I apparently went over broken yellow lines when overtaking which you can do in England and also because apparently I couldn’t see more than 100 metres in front of myself, however when we went back to the same road 2 days later you can actually see for 400 metres on the stretch where I overtook. People did say New Zealand police were arseholes and how right they were. Despite my protests there was no way this guy was letting me off so he issued me my fine before wishing me a good day the muppet.
So after getting delayed we then made it to Queenstown which has an amazing location nestled nicely beside the lake and surrounded by mountains with a few still having a small covering of snow on them.

Mountains at Wanaka

Today we walked to another glacier in the area this one being the Fox glacier which I thought was a lot more impressive than the one yesterday. In the afternoon we walked around Lake Matheson where apparently you can see reflections of Mount Cook in it however the weather was pretty poor so we never got the chance.
In the evening I stayed at the hostel having a beer and talking to Ibon and Jesse from Holland and it turned into a very funny night especially after Ibon getting drunk on half a bottle of beer and him nearly waking the woman up in the room next to us at 11.30pm. He did however manage to take some fantastic photos that night of the southern cross and Mars and kindly gave me a copy of them to.

Fox Glacier

Fox Glacier

Lake Matheson

Southern Cross (taken by Ibon)

Southern Cross (taken by Ibon)

Franz Josef at night (taken by Ibon)

All 3 of us had initially considered doing a half walk on the Franz Josef glacier but most of the people we had spoken to told us it wasn’t really worth it for the money they were charging and a full days walk was out of my budget range so instead we took the car to the car park nearby and went for a 90 minute walk to get as close as we possibly could to it. The rest of the day was spent trying to update my diary and also meeting the crazy Spaniard Ibon who would be staying in my room.

Franz Josef Glacier

Franz Josef Glacier

The view from Franz Josef Glacier

Spent most of the day driving although I did get a chance to look at the Pancake Rocks along the way which was very much worth the visit. Arrived at Franz Josef around 4pm and the Gloworm Hostel we booked into looked very nice and I would certainly recommend it to anyone staying here in the future. That night we went to a local pub where we bumped into Simon and Rachel whom we had meet in Nelson and were soon to bump into them several more times along the way conveniently in other pubs along the journey.

A faint rainbow.Our view from the hostel at Punakaiki

Pancake Rocks

Pancake Rocks

Pancake Rocks

Pancake Rocks

Pancake Rocks

Pancake Rocks

Blow holes at Pancake Rocks

look out for crazy cyclists with only one wheel

Had to wake up fairly early this morning as I had a 2 hour walk to catch the bus and had to be there before 10.45am. I set off around 8.15am just in case I accidently took a wrong turning but in the end everything went well except the rain started on the last hour of the walk and I made it to the bus stop with plenty of time to spare. The next part of the trek though would be by bus and I wouldn’t be in Punakaiki till 8pm to meet Simon and Jill at the hostel. Even though I was expecting it to be a fairly dull bus journey it actually turned out to be a very enjoyable and pleasant trip. I managed to stop at Pupu Springs along the way and spent the rest of the time talking to several very nice people on the various buses I ended up on, and also the scenery most of the way was pretty spectacular at times.
Finally though I got to the hostel around 8pm and at last I would get the chance to have a nice hot shower, something I hadn’t had for 4 days.
And before I conclude the day I would like to say a big thanks to Dennis for letting me join him on the Abel Tasman Walk and for kindly providing all the accessories to make it possible. It was a mindblowing experience and a pleasure mate and happy travels for the future.

The end of the Abel Tasman Coastal Walk

Pupu Springs

Actually managed to get a reasonable nights sleep last night but was still up around 7am.
Today involved yet another long walk and we had to be on our toes as we had to cross 2 low tide crossings which would in fact save us a lot of time and walking distance. About 2 hours into the walk I was already feeling abit tired however things soon looked up when to our amazement we passed the Awaroa Lodge and I decided to get what I first thought was sausages and fried potatoes but turned out to be sausages, mashed potato, mushy peas and onion gravy quite possibly one of my favourite meals. I was also tempted to have a nice cold pint of lager but decided against it seeings as it would of dehydrated me later on. After the meal we couldn’t hang around to much longer because we had the 2 low tide crossings to make and a few people Dennis had met at the hostel in Nelson didn’t make them in time the previous day and were waist deep in water. Luckily for us though we got to both of them in time and then continued the pleasant walk to Mutton Cove which would be our last camp site before we went our separate ways with me continuing the walk onto Wanui Bay to catch the bus and Dennis making his way back along the track for 2 hours to get the nearest water taxi available.

Dennis a top guy and fantastic travel companion

Mutton Cove

Woke up around 7am and I seriously had forgotten how uncomfortable it is sleeping on a thin piece of foam especially when its compared to a nice warm bed. Still here we were in this amazing place with the sun already shining and the gorgeous golden beach completely to ourselves. After eating Dennis’s strange but very enjoyable mix of oatmeal, chocolate, fruit and nuts all mixed together for breakfast we were on our way for what turned out to be a totally crazy and at times very tiring walk.
Again like yesterday the walk was amazing but today there was a hill near the end that totally crucified me and in the heat as well I was so happy to eventually make it to the campsite. Tonights campsite was at Onetahuti Beach which was actually quite a luxury one as it had a undercover cooking area and also flushable toilets as opposed to the hole in the ground the night before, what more could you ask for while camping.
The walk today was around 7 hours and after we pitched the tent all I wanted to do was go for a swim in the clear blue sea and after initially thinking it was way to cold I decided to brave it and go for the plunge and after the intial shock it wasn’t actually to bad. However around 20 minutes later I noticed some huge black/grey coloured object in the water within 5 metres of myself. Not sure at first what it was I decided to get out of the water on then realized it was a huge stingray fish swimming about, so I thought I would call it a day and give the swimming a miss.
After Dennis cooked yet another delightful meal we both sat on this huge rock next to the sea and after chatting for several minutes neither of us could believe what we were about to see. Looking out towards the sea and around 50 metres in the distance a pod of around 15-20 dolphins appeared and we spent 20 minutes watching them dive out of the water and play around with each other. To be there on the beach as the sun was going down and no one else around was absolutely amazing and to then see these dolphins was mindblowing. Then after the sun had gone down and the stars came out I sat staring at them for what seemed like forever in my own little world, thinking about what an amazing day it had been and looking forward even more to tomorrow.

Abel Tasman

Onetahuti Beach, Abel Tasman

Wahay adventure time or so we initially thought.
I woke up early so I could rearrange my rucksack for the camping trip and to sort out what I would be leaving in the car. We set off on the drive to the start of the Abel Tasman track where Simon and Jill would drop Dennis and myself off so we could pick up our kayaks. The kayak company told us the previous day that they opened up at 8.30am and that was it. Well we arrived around 10.30am and as soon as Dennis started talking to this woman I knew there were problems. They actually wanted us to turn up at 8.30am where we would then have to waste half a day kayaking with instructors before we would be allowed to venture out alone. What a complete balls up by them.
They then tried to make things better by offering us the chance to kayak tomorrow which wasn’t possible because we already had campsites booked in advance and I had cancelled my accommodation in the hostel I was originally staying in. Dennis and myself then had a chat and said sod the kayak company and that we would instead walk the entire route, all 51km of it in the 3.5 days.
The first days walking to Te Pukatea Bay was absolutely amazing and the shape of things to come. The beaches were amazing and the sun was shining and we couldn’t ask for anything more. Once we reached the first campsite right next to the beach we had been walking for 5 and a half hours and there were only 2 other tents here for the night. We got the tent pitched and Dennis cooked one of his speciality meals and after that I went for a walk over to a lookout point and then settled in my sleeping bag about 9pm.

Te Pukatea Bay, Abel Tasman

Te Pukatea Bay, Abel Tasman

Te Pukatea Bay, Abel Tasman

Game on for the Abel Tasman walk with Dennis and today we went ahead and booked everything up. The plan was to sea kayak part of the route for 2 days and then spend the other day and a half walking and then I would get the bus to Punakaiki to meet up with Simon and Jill. After getting it all booked up I then went to a camping shop to get myself a cheap roll mat to lie on while camping and then we headed back to the others as we has arranged to drive to Rabbit Island and relax at the beach for the rest of the day.
Simon a german guy decided to join us so him, Dennis, Simon, Jill and myself all squeezed into the car and spent the rest of the day in the blazing sunshine on the beach, swimming in the sea and making rather bizarre/strange sandcastles.

Woke up fairly early and feeling pretty good considering the late night and amount of beers consumed. Dennis was going for a walk around the town today so I decided to join him and we immediately got talking about doing a walk he had planned (The Abel Tasman Coastal Track) for 3 and a half days. I had been hoping to do something like this while in New Zealand and thanks to him it was possible as he had the tent and all the facilities to go camping with. We headed down to the information centre to find out some details to see if it would all be possible and to see if I would be able to get a bus afterwards to meet up with the others.
After that we headed over to a very different and very nice cathedral for a look around and then after a walk around town headed to an area which allegedly is the centre of New Zealand. Well after getting to the start of a track that takes you up this hill the sign actually tells you that after more research was done the centre is actually 60km in a different direction. Somewhat abit confused by all this we still continued to walk up the hill where theres a plaque telling you it’s the centre of NZ and theres also stunning views from here. After a few photos and a few minutes rest I heard a voice I recognized and seconds later up walked Simon and Jill to our amazement. Once they got to the top they also told us about a walk down to some botanic gardens and a micro brewery along the way so Dennis and myself decided to join them to. First we visited the brewery where we sampled 5 of the beers they made before going to the gardens which were rather pleasant and so relaxing I sat on the grass and fell asleep in the sun for half an hour.
Tonight was suprising a rather dull affair compared to the night before. Theres was no Hans around as he left this morning and by 11pm I had gone to bed and crashed out.

Flowers shaped like a bird, Nelson

Christ Church Cathedral

Christ Church Cathedral

Miyazu Japanese Gardens

Miyazu Japanese Gardens

Today we were heading over to the South Island of New Zealand and even though I had researched my book a few days previous and not found to much to do here which surprised me, I was actually looking forward to it because theres a lot more walking tracks and mountains in the South Island.
Dennis the American guy who we met a few days previous was joining us in the car today and its always good to have someone new joining us from time to time as it gives us a chance to find out about other peoples travel experiences and Dennis has plenty of those. We set sail on the boat at 1.30pm and eventually got to Nelson around 6.45pm and headed straight to the Paradiso Hostel where we were booked into. We knew Hans the crazy german was staying in Nelson but weren’t sure where and I couldn’t believe it when I put the key in the lock and opened the door and who was staying there opposite me, yes the man himself. We were in fits of laughter and I think the whole of the town heard us and when we did eventually stop laughing the first thing hes does is shake my hand and then thrust a beer in my hand. Things at this point couldn’t get any better as he is such a top class guy and so funny.
Anyway after things calmed down Jill, Simon and myself headed into town to get some food while Hans went to the shop to get some more supplies of beer. By the time we got back to the hostel they had opened up the bus which is in the back garden and is the place to go after 10pm so you are not making lots of noise near the hostel. With the beers flowing tonight quite possibly turned into one of the funniest in ages. There was Hans and his stories especially the police uniform one which on here I cant go into detail in, Dennis and me completely pissing around doing stupid things which also I cant say to much about and then there was lobster girl also know as the girl who was as thick as shit and dizzy as hell and so sunburnt she was asking for the abuse we gave her all night.
Eventually though after all the beers had been drunk things calmed down abit and we all eventually decided to call it a night.

Spent another day on my own as I wanted to walk up to Mt Victoria and the others were going to drive up it. By the time I left the hostel it was around 12pm and straight from there I headed up the steep road where the track started to take me up the mountain. Even though its not actually that high its still a fairly steep climb which took me by surprise and it was very windy today but the views from the top made me appreciate it all the more. It was just a shame the sun never came out as I would of then been more than happy to spend a few hours up here relaxing, but instead after around 30 minutes looking out over Wellington I then headed back down the path.
The rest of the day was just spent trying to update my diary in an internet café but to no avail so I headed back to the hostel and did some washing before meeting up with the others so we could all go out for a meal and then watch the fireworks for Bonfire Night, which turned out to be a very spectacular display.

Wellington from Mt Victoria

Wellington from Mt Victoria

Headed off out on my own today to see some of the sights of Wellington and it was definitely more enjoyable not actually planning the whole day out and not looking at a map constantly but instead just walking until I found places of interest. After walking up and down streets and not knowing where I would up end I eventually stumbled across the Beehive Building and Government Buildings and after that Old St Pauls Cathedral. Then as a lot of people has mentioned that the Te Papa Museum was well worth a visit I decided I would have a look around seeings as its free. Well after no more than 45 minutes spent inside I personally have to say that it’s the biggest waste of money ive ever seen. It’s a huge building with something like 6 floors but there doesn’t seem to be hardly anything inside it and compared to museums ive been to in London it was not worth spending 1 more minute in. But besides the museum so far I like Wellington a lot and the rest of it is definitely worth the visit so far.
Later I met up with the others and they had bumped into Hans the crazy german who had stayed in the same room as me in Taupo and they had planned to meet him later tonight and I was really looking forward to having yet another crazy night with him around.
We headed over to Base Backpackers where they have a bar downstairs and as the conversation was totally dull and boring I was just wishing sooner or later that Hans would turn up and it wasn’t looking good. Two guys then came over and said there was a pool tournament tonight with the winner getting a $50 bar tab and no boasting to much but I knew I definitely had a very very good chance of winning that, well that was until they told us it was doubles and I was partnered with Simon. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaargh one minute I was looking forward to get drunk on free booze then my illusions were shattered in seconds. Still I had a bit of confidence in my own ability and all I had to do was play even harder. After a few games we actually managed to make it to the final and we were playing the 2 guys who had arranged the tournament. At this point I thought maybe these guys are a lot better than they make out and they do this sort of thing a lot to try and get you to stay longer in there bar and drink more. However I don’t think they were expecting to get some stiff competition in the final no matter how many beers I had drunk. As for the game well I potted 7 balls and left Simon just the black to pot with the others having 5 balls still left. Simon in his same whack the ball around the table fashion hit the black around the table and somehow pots it only for the white to follow. All it needed was a gentle shot but that was it and the game was lost. Putting it mildly I was totally pissed off.
Luckily though Hans had turned up by then so I spent the rest of the night with him having a wild night laughing and joking and also with an American guy Dennis who he had met.

Parliament House

Old St Pauls Cathedral

Beehive Building

Cenotaph

A church i forget the name of

Today we were driving to Wellington which would be our last destination before we headed over to the South Island. Before that though we had to try and squeeze all our things into the car as Simon had invited a guy to join us on the drive there, his name being Austin and he was from Texas, and of all the places in Texas this guy actually came from Austin. So once Austin from Austin was squeezed in we made our way down to Wellington and this was a place that at least I had several things that I wanted to see.
We arrived at the YHA around 4pm and it’s the biggest of all the hostels we have ever stayed in although it is very nice and with the room I was in I even managed to get a decent view across the water. Simon had arranged to meet an old work mate of his so the 4 of us went out for a drink and then onto an Indian restaurant for some food before heading back to the hostel around 11pm.

Simon and Jill arranged to go out on a wine tasting tour today so I spent the day going for a walk around town and then relaxed in the park for an hour.